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When compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.